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Enrique Ledesma Mexican modernist silver and gemstone Ring

By in Mexican and Latin American, Rings/earrings |

Overlay, oxidation and faceted gemstone combine in this Ledesma modernist sterling silver ring. The gem is deep purple in color and it registers as spinel on my gem tester even though it does look (and even behaves) like a color-change sapphire. Eye-pleasing asymmetry and a sense of effortless flow work together to bestow the ring an airy feeling – an airiness that is also reflected in the way it wears…   Size/Weight: sz 6 US (resizable with this caveat: the hallmarks are on the inside of the shank so if your jeweler has to be careful enough or you have to sacrifice part of them); face is just shy of 1″ by 5/8″; 5.5 grams Hallmarks / Date: maker’s signature as shown as well as “TAXCO 925” and “MEXICO” alongside Eagle 3 assay mark; 1950s-60s Condition: very good vintage with a richly colored, beautiful gem, great patina and no damage...

Los Castillo Mexican silver mozaico Azteca mask Earrings

By in Mexican and Latin American, Rings/earrings |

Figural Los Castillo mozaico Azteca earrings wrought in sterling silver with azur-malachite inlay this set dates from Taxco’s middle period and is a great example of the sculpurality and sense of texture the specific technique can impart. The renowned workshop is credited with saving this ancient way of working with inlay from obsolescence and then proceeding to experiment with it creating some of their best designs – in my opinion at least. Here the blues and greens in the stone are darker, their seriousness matching the expression on the “mask’s” face and the warm patina they have developed over the years…   Size/Weight: approx. 1″ squre; 10.8 grams (for the set) Hallmarks / Date: workshop’s name as shown as well as “MADE IN MEXICO”, des. no 148 and bearing Eagle 15 assay mark; 1950s-60s Condition: excellent vintage with all...

early William Spratling Mexican Deco silver Ring with cascabeles

By in Mexican and Latin American, Rings/earrings |

One of Spratling’s early designs, the “ring with three cascabeles” possesses the primordial charm of ambitious beginnings that are nonetheless steeped in the creativity of ancient cultures. I believe the motif is the same here as that in the tortoise shell and silver “snake” box – the more I look at it, the more I think of writhing serpents with spotted skins. The cascabeles are simply the melodious cherry that tops an already superb piece. Even though it is obvious that the ring has been resized at some point and can now be enjoyed as a pinky, I am thrilled to have stumbled across it and so will whoever becomes its caretaker in the future…   Size/Weight: sz 4.5 US; width between 3/4″ and 7/16″; 7.0 grams Hallmarks / Date: “WS” print as shown in the photos; 1931-1946 Condition: excellent vintage with fantastic patina and...

rare Gerardo Lopez Mexican silver zodiac Charm Bracelet ~ Cancer

By in Bracelets, Mexican and Latin American |

In all the years I have been dealing with Mexican silver jewelry I had never seen a Gerardo Lopez zodiac piece! His emulations of Margot de Taxco designs and his imaginative re-combination of her motifs in beautifully made jewelry notwithstanding, it never crossed my mind that I would find an astrological example by him. Yet here it is – beguilingly sculptural, his nude Aphrodite emerges from the sea standing in for the sign of Cancer. Next to the sea shell that keeps her afloat a big crab reaches for the sky. The goddess brings to mind Margot’s representation for the sign of Virgo but here the female figure is more voluptuous – you can almost see the droplets of water as they refract the sunlight on her young, wet body. What a find…   Size/Weight: 7 1/4″ long (wearable, for the chain bracelet) by 3/8″ wide; charm is a tad above 1 1/2″ in...

Celia Harms Mexican silver gilt charm Torque Necklace with amethyst, agate, lapis and coral

By in Mexican and Latin American, Necklaces |

It is a rare occurrence to happen upon a Celia Harms necklace – her bracelets, though scarce as well, are a little easier to find. Harms worked in the 1950s-60s in Veracruz yet based on what I have seen of hers, her jewelry has a distinct character while remaining within the wider context of 20th c. Mexican jewelry design. The torque necklace at hand, wrought of gilded sterling silver, is adorned by a luscious, layered charm pendant. Below the large polished agate there hangs a multitude of wire-wrapped tumbled amethysts and quartz of various colors; branches of coral; sodalite and lapis beads as well as an articulated fish charm and a filigree sphere. Perfect for those breezy summer nights on the beach, don’t you think?   Size/Weight: approx. 14 1/4″ – 14 1/2″ inner circumference (including the 2 1/8″ gap); pendant adds a 4 3/4″ drop to the...

Hector Aguilar Mexican silver mod buckle Ring

By in Mexican and Latin American, Rings/earrings |

Popular for centuries in jewelry-making traditions all over the world the buckle motif can be found in all forms and metals, with or without gems, quite elaborate or strikingly minimalist. This 1940s Hector Aguilar version is wrought in sterling and even though its ornamentation is kept at a bare minimum, its rendition is sculptural, an attribute that is enhanced by oxidation and the patina of time. Even better, it is adjustable and there is enough “belt” there to make it several sizes bigger though it can also be smaller…   Size/Weight: currently sz 7.5 US yet fully adjustable; buckle is 5/8″ square; 7.1 grams Hallmarks / Date: fully signed with maker’s conjoined initials in a circle formed by “MADE IN MEXICO STERLING” (see Hougart, Little Book of Mexican Silver, e-edition, p. 14, A-12); 1943-48 Condition: very good vintage with nice, crisp...