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Mexican silver and color-change sapphire Dangle Earrings ~ Ledesma neo-Aztec design

By in Mexican and Latin American, Rings/earrings |

Based on a neo-Aztec design created by the modernist genius of Enrique Ledesma this set of long dangle earrings is not signed for maker but is beautifully articulated and carefully finished. I am sure it was made by one of Ledesma’s Taxco contemporaries; both the weight and the fact that the screw-back findings (and only those) are made of alpaca indicates to me that the set did not come out of the renowned designer’s workshop. This having been said, I can assure you that the earrings are masterfully crafted, with careful oxidation in the shadowbox stations, immaculate little beads accenting them, show-casing two big, prong-set synthetic sapphires that change color under different light conditions thus mimicking the behavior of alexandrites…   Size/Weight: 2 1/8″ long by 7/8″ wide; 12.9 grams (for the set) Hallmarks / Date: not signed for maker nor...

Deodat Kleist 1960s German 835 silver and amber Ring

By in Rings/earrings, US/European |

Handmade in the 1960s this ring crafted in 835 silver follows the Arts and Crafts tradition in its chased, textured and oxidized silver-work and the choice of amber as its “stone”. Active in the 1960s and 1970s in Germany, Deodat is the first of the two Kleists known for their jewelry, the second being his son, Helmut, who started work in 1965. Beautifully made, carefully finished, the ring evokes the craftsmanship of earlier ages yet looks very much at home on our modern fingers…   Size/Weight: sz 6 US (yet adjustable due to its open shank); face is 6/8″ square; 5.5 grams Hallmarks / Date: signed with maker’s name as well as “835”; 1960s-70s Condition: excellent vintage with craftsmanship that goes back to the care and attention of Arts and Crafts silversmiths, fantastic patina, beautiful, rich color in the amber, with no damage and no repairs...

Los Castillo Mexican silver mozaico Azteca Necklace Earrings set

By in Mexican and Latin American, Necklaces, Rings/earrings |

In their “mozaico Azteca” jewelry line the Los Castillo primarily combined sterling silver with azur-malachite inlay yet from time to time one stumbles upon a less often encountered piece in which high quality “peacock” abalone was used for the “mosaic”. This assembled demi comprised of necklace and earrings fits the last category – and it is perfect in its bare bones approach to design! Both components of the set stride the divide between late Deco and early modernism with their angularity and minimalism, the latter belied just a little by the playfulness of the flat bead adorning each earring…   Size/Weight: 15 5/8″ long (wearable) by 1/2″ wide and 52.0 grams for the necklace; earrings are 3/4″ wide by 5/8″ tall and 6.2 grams; total set weight 58.2 grams Hallmarks / Date: signed with maker’s name as shown...

Ivar Holth / Ottar Hval Norway 830 silver solje Brooch and Earrings set

By in Brooches, Rings/earrings, US/European |

Based in Oslo, Norway, Ivar Holth and Ottar Hval created jewelry in both the classic Scandinavian enamel-over-silver genre but also pieces based on traditional designs, like the solje brooch and dangle earrings assembled set at hand. Wrought in 830 silver with the concave round and teardrop dangles having a vermeil finish the demi is delicate and eye-catching at the same time and has an endearing “ethnic” appeal. In Norwegian culture “solje” (sun) jewelry was believed to protect its wearer from evil, especially during transitional periods and was thus considered appropriate for newborns and brides. Though made by different makers this brooch and earrings came to me from a single owner and I thought they should continue their life together…   Size/Weight: brooch is 3 1/8″ tall by 2 1/8″ wide; earrings are 15/16″ long by 3/4″ wide;...

modernist Mexican silver copper figural Brooch and Earrings set ~ Taxco mixed metals

By in Mexican and Latin American, Pins/brooches, Rings/earrings |

Definitely bought as a set yet signed by two different makers the figural brooch and matching earrings at hand combine silver with copper , overlay and cut-outs, oxidation and wirework ornamentation. Modernist in its rendition of an ancient warrior or priest, the design, if I am not mistaken, can be found with the Los Castillo or Victoria’s signature on it as well yet here it is made by listed but “less celebrated” maestros. What I like about this demi is not just its careful crafting and generous weight – this is not a cheaply made copy – but also the wonderful patina the metals have acquired over time…   Size/Weight: brooch is 2 7/8″ tall by 1 3/4″ wide (at its widest); earrings are 1 3/8″ tall by 3/4″ wide; 36.5 grams (for the set) Hallmarks / Date: brooch is signed with maker’s initials “MPO” as well as...

Los Castillo Mexican silver mozaico Azteca mask Earrings

By in Mexican and Latin American, Rings/earrings |

Figural Los Castillo mozaico Azteca earrings wrought in sterling silver with azur-malachite inlay this set dates from Taxco’s middle period and is a great example of the sculpurality and sense of texture the specific technique can impart. The renowned workshop is credited with saving this ancient way of working with inlay from obsolescence and then proceeding to experiment with it creating some of their best designs – in my opinion at least. Here the blues and greens in the stone are darker, their seriousness matching the expression on the “mask’s” face and the warm patina they have developed over the years…   Size/Weight: approx. 1″ squre; 10.8 grams (for the set) Hallmarks / Date: workshop’s name as shown as well as “MADE IN MEXICO”, des. no 148 and bearing Eagle 15 assay mark; 1950s-60s Condition: excellent vintage with all...