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Enrique Ledesma Mexican silver blue enamel Necklace

By in Mexican and Latin American, Necklaces |

One of the most inspired Taxco modernists, Enrique Ledesma is not widely known as an enamelist yet he did create jewelry combining sterling with bright colored enamels. It seems that those pieces are rare and difficult to find but if one is lucky enough to come upon an example, the search is justified and the seeker duly rewarded! The necklace at hand, distinctly “machine age” in its constituting elements, breaks free of its functionalist constraints with the use of brilliant blue enamel. The color seems as if lit from within, the glaze above it giving it a semi-translucent appearance, the richness of the pigment breath-taking. Simple materials, simple geometry, fantastic sense of design…   Size / Weight: 16 3/4″ long (wearable; end-to-end 17 1/2″; can easily accept a sterling extension) by 3/4″ wide; 73.0 grams Hallmarks / Date: fully and...

Enrique Ledesma Mexican silver modernist Bracelet with obsidian

By in archived |

One of my favorite – and at the same time classic – Enrique Ledesma designs the bracelet at hand combines sterling silver and golden sheen obsidian in the maestro’s characteristic, perfectly seamless way. Ledesma experimented with various stones creating the specific bracelet but I think this year is meant to be an “obsidian year” for me and I will say that I love this version. Difficult to carve since it is a volcanic form of glass, obsidian has to be worked by skilled, masterful lapidaries to prevent it from chipping and breaking when it’s being worked on but the shimmering silvery gold depths it reveals when the light hits it are worth the trouble and the extra effort…   Size / Weight: 7 1/8″ long (wearable) by 3/4″ wide; 36.4 grams Hallmarks / Date: fully hallmarked with Ledesma’s signature as shown as well as...

Enrique Ledesma Mexican silver and stone modernist Necklace

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One of the best Taxco modernists Enrique Ledesma was successful not only as a jewelry designer but also as a mosaicist and a lapidary. Two of his favorite materials, sterling silver and stone, are combined here in a classic for the maestro design. Minimalist, quite geometric with clean, easy to follow lines, the necklace’s only luxury seems to be the saturated, rich green of the chrysocolla (I think!) trapezoids. Easy to wear and quite comfortable as it has the ability to conform to the neckline in the most effortless way, this is a piece that never loses its relevance nor its almost universal appeal…   Size / Weight: 15 3/4″ long (wearable) by 5/8″ wide; 74.3 grams Hallmarks / Date: maker’s signature in script as shown as well as “MEXICO”, “925” and Eagle 60 assay mark; 1950s-60s Condition: excellent vintage with gorgeous...

Mexican silver and color-change sapphire Dangle Earrings ~ Ledesma neo-Aztec design

By in Mexican and Latin American, Rings/earrings |

Based on a neo-Aztec design created by the modernist genius of Enrique Ledesma this set of long dangle earrings is not signed for maker but is beautifully articulated and carefully finished. I am sure it was made by one of Ledesma’s Taxco contemporaries; both the weight and the fact that the screw-back findings (and only those) are made of alpaca indicates to me that the set did not come out of the renowned designer’s workshop. This having been said, I can assure you that the earrings are masterfully crafted, with careful oxidation in the shadowbox stations, immaculate little beads accenting them, show-casing two big, prong-set synthetic sapphires that change color under different light conditions thus mimicking the behavior of alexandrites…   Size/Weight: 2 1/8″ long by 7/8″ wide; 12.9 grams (for the set) Hallmarks / Date: not signed for maker nor...

Ledesma style Mexican silver modernist Bracelet ~ niello and color-change sapphire

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Copying the style associated with Enrique Ledesma this mid-century modernist Mexican silver bracelet is signed by a listed yet still unidentified contemporary of the famous Taxco designer. The juxtaposition of highly oxidized and polished silver surfaces characteristic of the style is dramatic and eye-catching and here it finds itself in contrast to the saturated color of the faceted synthetic sapphire. Mimicking the behavior of alexandrites, the gem changes from deep purple to steely amethyst under different light conditions while the sterling ring around it reflects and enhances the effect…   Size/Weight: 6 3/4″ inner circumference (clasped); width between 1 3/16″ and 1/2″; 38.7 grams Hallmarks / Date: maker’s initials “MMC” as well as “TAXCO MEXICO 925” and Eagle 3 assay mark; 1950s-60s Condition: very good vintage with the...